Michael Spiers
Finding the Perfect Watch
Buying a watch is an incredibly exciting experience, whether as a special purchase to commemorate an important milestone, to expand an existing collection, or simply as a gift to yourself. Yet with so many amazing timepieces available, knowing where to start can seem overwhelming.
From finding a design that suits your unique style to understanding different watch movements and functionalities, there are several important factors to consider before making your choice. Our Watch Buying Guide covers everything you need to know, helping you navigate the process with confidence so that you may discover your dream timepiece.
Watch Anatomy
Watch Case
The case is the body of the timepiece, housing and protecting the internal movements and dial from dust, moisture, and physical damage. Often crafted from a wide range of materials like Stainless Steel or Gold, a strong watch case is crucial for the longevity of your watch. Cases come in a variety of different sizes which is explored further below.
Caseback
As part of the watch case, the caseback protects the internal components from your wrist. Some watches either have a solid metal caseback or are made from sapphire crystal. The latter acts as a window, allowing you to see the inner workings of your watch.
Movement
Regarded as the heart of the watch, the movement is the mechanism that powers your timepiece, driving all functionality by converting stored energy into precise, regulated motion. Most watch manufacturers typically develop and test their own movements before sending them for external testing.
Crystal
The crystal is the transparent cover that protects the watch dial. Many manufacturers opt for sapphire crystal glass for its clarity, durability, and exceptional scratch resistance, although some brands will use mineral glass or a combination of synthetic materials.
Bezel
The bezel is the outer ring that surrounds the crystal and secures it to the case. Sometimes these are locked, whilst on others, like dive watches, they are graduated and rotatable to help measure elapsed time.
Crown
The crown is a key part of any watch. Often located on the right-hand (or sometimes left) side of the case, the crown is a small knob that is connected to the movement via a stem. It is used to wind mechanical and automatic watches and to adjust functions such as the time and date. On diving watches, crowns often feature rubber gaskets to ensure enhanced water resistance.
Pushers
Pushers are additional parts of a chronograph watch. These control various functions of a chronograph mechanism, such as resetting a stopwatch or changing time zones. They are more often than not located on either side of the crown on the right-hand side of the watch face.
Strap & Bracelet
The strap or bracelet secures the timepiece comfortably to your wrist and plays a key role in both its style and wearability. Watchmakers offer a wide range of options to suit different tastes and occasions, from luxurious alligator leather and vintage-inspired leather straps to timeless 3-link, 5-link, and integrated metal bracelets. Many manufacturers also provide interchangeable strap systems, making it easy to swap between different materials, colours, and styles to give your watch a fresh look.
Lugs
Lugs are the protrusions on the watch case where the strap or bracelet is attached. They play an incredibly important role in how the watch sits on your wrist.
Dial
The dial is the visible face of the watch, displaying the time and other information such as the date and, in some circumstances, the month and year. The dial is ultimately the star of the show, highlighting the manufacturer's designs and brand colours. Dials can come in a variety of materials, and some brands use traditional techniques like enamelling.
Hour Markers
Hour markers, located on the dial, indicate the hour and are included on most watches. For dive watches, the hour markers are often coated with a luminescent material, making them easier to read in low-light conditions. Dress watches often replace the hour markers with precious stones like diamonds to add a touch of elegance to the overall aesthetic.
Hands
Similar to hour markers, the hands of the watch come in a variety of different styles and materials. These are essential for telling the time accurately. Many manufacturers today craft hands based on the heritage of the brand, and again, some watchmakers take a creative approach, opting for having no hands and using a different movement to indicate the time.
Sub-Dials
Sub-dials are smaller dials placed on the main watch face that provide additional information. Commonly found on chronographs, the sub-dials can display elapsed time, alarms, date, month, year, and more.
Date Aperture
Often crafted as a small window, the date aperture displays the date and can be changed using the watch crown. Typically, these are located either at 3 o'clock or 6 o'clock, however some vary depending on the function of the watch. For example, the Tissot PR 100 Vuelta features a date aperture located between 4 and 5 o'clock.
Types of Watch Movement
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Quartz Movement -
Automatic Movement -
Manual Movements
Michael Spiers
Understanding Different Watch Complications
Now that you have an understanding of how watches are powered, we can explore the different types of complications found in timepieces.
Watches are capable of so much more than just telling the time, with additional intricate ‘complications’ providing further information or added value to the timepiece.
A watch complication is, in essence, any feature on a timepiece that goes beyond displaying the basic hours, minutes, and seconds. There are a multitude of different complications that have been created and patented in history by a variety of brands, such as the Co-Axial Escapement and Perpetual Calendar.
Watch Complications
Date
A simple complication that displays today’s date. This is often located at the 3 o’clock or 6 o’clock position in a small window. This complication is very popular and can be adjusted using the crown.
Day Date
An upgrade from the minimalist date, this complication features both the date and day of the week. Designs vary incredibly, with some brands opting for traditional written days, whilst others use stylised symbols.
Chronograph
Chronographs are built for those who require precision timekeeping functions. Essentially, a chronograph is a built-in stopwatch, allowing you to measure elapsed time using start, stop, and reset functions that do not interfere with the main movement. Chronographs are easy to recognise, as they will feature smaller subdials incorporated into the larger main dial design. The operating pushers will be located on the side of the timepiece, with the crown often nestled in between.
GMT
A GMT complication is a watch function that displays a second timezone alongside local time. Named after the historic Greenwich Mean Time, the foundation for global time zones since 1884, a GMT function features a standard 12-hour dial with an additional GMT hand that circles the dial once every 24 hours. This is then utilised by a rotatable bezel with a 24-hour scale, allowing you to track an additional timezone.
To read the local time, simply read the regular hour and minute hands. For the second timezone, set the GMT hand to your chosen city’s time using a 24-hour scale. Perfect for globe-trotters, a GMT is a wonderful choice for those who travel frequently or need to track the time in a different country.
Moonphase
Displaying the current lunar phase, a moonphase function is a complication that adds a sense of the celestial to any timepiece. Showcasing a new moon, the first quarter, full moon, or last quarter, a moon phase is displayed in a window using a disc that turns following the 29.5-day lunar cycle.
Perpetual Calendar
This complication is highly complex, tracking the correct date, day, month, and year. This self-adjusting movement (with months varying in length) requires no manual adjustments, utilising what is referred to as mechanical memory.
Watch Materials
Stainless Steel
This is the most common material used for watch cases. Stainless steel is an industry standard due to its incredible durability, corrosion resistance, and high-quality polished finish. This is an all-around great material that survives everyday wear.
Gold
Whether yellow, rose, or white gold, each offers an additional, luxurious touch to your timepiece. Gold is heavier than stainless steel and provides a more classic look, with watches often using certified 18ct to ensure the case will stand up to regular wear.
Platinum
Platinum is a high-end material that adds a sense of prestige to a timepiece. Whilst it is heavier than white gold, it provides a more consistent colour.
Ceramic
Ceramic is a non-metallic material that many brands use for crafting sporty diving watches. Both lightweight and highly scratch-resistant, ceramic is often understated and popular among watch enthusiasts. For example, TUDOR’s Black Bay Ceramic, released at Watches & Wonders 2026, is completely crafted from the material, including its bracelet.
Titanium
Titanium is used predominantly for tool watches as it is twice as strong as steel, perfect for dive watches. Alongside this, what makes titanium an attractive material for watchmakers is that it is considerably lighter than steel, as well as being extremely resistant to saltwater corrosion.
Composite
Some brands create their own composite materials for specific functionality. For example, Breitling has crafted their exclusive Breitlight™, an ultra-lightweight composite polymer that they use for their Endurance Pro models.
Michael Spiers
Selecting a Watch Case Size
With a solid understanding of watch movements, different complications, and materials, you can now begin to explore watch case sizes and discover which dimensions best suit your wrist and personal style.
Every watch brand offers a range of case sizes, with dimensions influenced by the watch’s intended purpose. For example, elegant dress watches typically feature a slimmer profile, utilising a quartz movement in a more compact case. On the other hand, tool watches are often crafted with larger cases to enhance durability and legibility whilst in the field. Some watches offer even larger cases for professional use.
Although smaller cases have become more popular in recent years, exploring the full range of available options will help you find the size that best suits your wrist and lifestyle.
Explore Watch Case Sizes
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<25mm Watches -
25-30mm Watches -
31-35mm Watches -
36-40mm Watches -
41mm+ Watches
Watch Styles
Dress Watches
A dress watch is a minimalist timepiece designed to be worn with formal or business attire. Subtle and stylish, dress watches have a slim profile with a modest size, often keeping additional functions at a minimum to maintain a clean profile. Both Men's and Ladies' dress watches vary in design, nevertheless share a similar aesthetic.
Dive Watches
Dive watches are purpose-built for exploring the ocean’s depths, where visibility is often limited. Designed as practical tool watches, they typically feature larger cases and highly legible dials that make reading the time effortless, even in challenging underwater conditions.
Essential defining features include a unidirectional rotating bezel for tracking elapsed dive time, luminescent hands and hour markers for low-light conditions, and robust water resistance, complemented by a screw-down crown. As the Swiss watch industry has grown, these types of watches have become incredibly popular, not only for divers but for those who keenly appreciate horological development.
Pilot Watches
A pilot watch is specifically designed to assist pilots while flying. Just like dive watches, which are crafted for a specific purpose, a pilot watch has a few different, specialist characteristics. Unlike dive watches, a pilot watch has a full rotating bezel, often with a slide rule, such as the Breitling Navitimer, which allows pilots to calculate their flight time. In addition, a GMT function is incredibly important for pilots, allowing them to track different time zones.
Racing Watches
Designed for the racetrack, racing watches are all about precision down to the split-second. For motorsports, beating your lap time is essential. More often than not, racing watches have chronograph functions, allowing you to activate a stopwatch with ease. Lightweight and bold, racing watches are full of character, such as the iconic TAG Heuer Monaco collection.
Skeleton Watches
If you are intrigued by the inner workings of a timepiece, a skeleton watch may be the perfect timepiece for you. Skeleton watches, as the name implies, allow you to see through the dial and examine the inner workings of the movement with ease. From the beating heart to the individual components, skeleton watches are a fantastic addition to any collection.
Michael Spiers
Swiss Made
To join the ranks of some of the world’s best Swiss watchmakers, such as OMEGA, TUDOR, Breitling, TAG Heuer, and Tissot, a watch must conform to a strict set of regulations to declare itself Swiss-made. To qualify for this prestigious seal, a watch must:
- Have a Swiss Movement - This must be assembled and manufactured in Switzerland, with the individual components accounting for at least 60% of the total value.
- Technical Development - This must be carried out in Switzerland
- Casing & Assembly - the movement must be fitted within the case within the Swiss borders
- Final Inspection - must be carried out and testing conducted within Switzerland
This enforcement is a legal requirement enforced by the Swiss government to protect its watchmaking heritage.
