The History of FOPE: A Legacy of Innovation, Craftsmanship, and Italian Elegance

Posted on 6 May 2025

FOPE’s journey is defined by exceptional design, groundbreaking innovation, and an unwavering passion for craftsmanship. Founded in 1929 as a family-run goldsmith workshop in Vicenza, Italy, the brand has grown into a global icon, revolutionising the jewellery world with its signature Flex’it technology and redefining the concept of everyday luxury.


At Michael Spiers, we are continually inspired by FOPE’s latest collections, bracelets, earrings, necklaces, and rings that effortlessly blend beauty with ingenuity. What resonates most, however, is our shared commitment to values that matter: family heritage, meticulous craftsmanship, and a relentless pursuit of innovation.


In this article, we explore the remarkable story of FOPE - from its humble beginnings to its transformative contributions to contemporary jewellery design, and how the Maison continues to shape the future of the industry today.


FOPE: Humble Beginnings

Like all great legacies, FOPE’s story began with a vision. In 1929, Umberto Cazzola founded a small workshop in Vicenza, dedicating himself to crafting fine Italian jewellery with an unwavering commitment to quality and detail. Starting with just 20 employees, the business soon specialised in producing gold and silver watch straps, which led to key collaborations with prestigious Swiss watchmakers.


Originally named FICM (Fabbrica Italiana Cinghie Metalliche, or Italian Factory of Metal Straps), the company laid the foundation for what would become a hallmark of innovation and precision in jewellery manufacturing.


As the company grew, Umberto passed the torch to his son, Odino Cazzola, who carried forward his father’s pioneering vision. Even amidst the challenges of the Second World War, the Maison continued to operate, demonstrating remarkable resilience. By 1950, bolstered by Italy’s post-war economic boom, the original workshop had evolved into a state-of-the-art factory.


A Name Change: A Global Vision

In the aftermath of the Second World War, FICM made a major breakthrough, creating the world’s first flexible gold watch straps. This innovation, combining elegance with comfort, positioned the company as a key supplier to prestigious Swiss watchmakers and established the brand’s reputation for both luxury and technical excellence.


As the company’s influence spread beyond Italy, Odino Cazzola recognised the need for a name that reflected its growing international presence. In response, FICM evolved into FOPEFabbrica Oreficeria Preziosi per l’Esportazione (Factory of Precious Jewellery for Export), a name that would come to define a new era of fine jewellery.


FOPE in the 1970s: A Pivotal Moment

In 1970, Odino’s children, Umberto (named after his grandfather) and Ines, joined the family business, bringing new ideas and a fresh approach to innovation. While the factory continued to produce watch straps, this period also marked a time of great experimentation for the Cazzola family.


One of the key milestones of this era was the release of the Novecento mesh chain, a smooth, woven design that fit comfortably around the wrist. This innovative creation was more than just a new product, it marked FOPE’s transition into the world of fine jewellery. The Novecento quickly became a global sensation and solidified FOPE’s position as a leader in the jewellery industry.

By 1990, FOPE had even launched its first advertising campaigns, working with renowned photographers such as Giovanni Gastel to capture the essence of the family-run brand.


A New Era: Continuing the Family Legacy

As FOPE shifted its focus from watch straps to creating its own fine jewellery collections, the brand reached a significant milestone in 2000 with the opening of its new headquarters in Vicenza. This marked a strategic pivot, as FOPE moved away from relying on distributors and began forging direct relationships with select jewellers around the world who shared its values of quality and craftsmanship.


Around this time, the fourth generation of the Cazzola family, Giulia Cazzola, joined the business. Bringing new energy and a modern vision, Giulia made a bold move by opening FOPE’s first showroom in New York, further cementing the brand’s international presence. She also led the charge in expanding the company’s marketing efforts, shaping a contemporary global identity for FOPE.


The Launch of Flex’it: Revolutionising Fine Jewellery

2007 was a landmark year for FOPE with the launch of the groundbreaking Flex’it collection. Building on the success of the Novecento mesh chain, the Flex’it collection introduced a patented system that redefined comfort and wearability in fine jewellery.


At the heart of this innovation are tiny, hidden 18ct gold springs embedded between the links, allowing bracelets, rings, and necklaces to flex and adjust seamlessly to the wearer’s movements. This ingenious design ensures that FOPE jewellery fits perfectly, offering unparalleled comfort without sacrificing style.


Even years after its debut, the Flex’it collection remains a testament to FOPE’s craftsmanship and forward-thinking approach, solidifying the brand’s reputation as one of the foremost innovators in the jewellery industry.


The Rise of Modern FOPE

By 2014, FOPE had firmly established itself as a jewellery powerhouse. The brand became a certified member of the Responsible Jewellery Council and expanded its reach into the Gulf and Southeast Asia. As FOPE continued to grow, its collections flourished, incorporating the signature Flex’it technology into every new design.


FOPE Today: Where Craftsmanship Meets Modern Elegance

Today, FOPE represents the perfect fusion of cutting-edge technology and timeless craftsmanship. The brand’s collections are celebrated worldwide, and its collaborations with prestigious ambassadors further elevate its global stature.


In their latest campaign, All in Me, FOPE explores the multifaceted nature of identity, embodied by actress Olivia Cooke. Known for her roles in Ready Player One and House of the Dragon, Cooke perfectly personifies the versatile, dynamic spirit of FOPE’s jewellery, elegant yet bold, modern yet timeless.


"As an actress, I’ve played a lot of different roles, with very different styles, and in this campaign, we also played with characters and styles. I loved how the FOPE jewellery adapted to each one of them, no matter what the mood was.”

Olivia Cooke

Discover the World of FOPE

There is truly nothing like a piece of FOPE jewellery. Its elegance, simplicity, and contemporary style make it the perfect addition to any collection. To experience the true essence of FOPE, we invite you to explore their exquisite pieces at one of our showrooms in Truro, Plymouth, Exeter, or Taunton. Our friendly team will be delighted to help you find the perfect piece that speaks to your personal style.

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