Unveiled at Watches & Wonders 2025, Patek Philippe has breathed new life into their dress watch designs with the Calatrava Reference 6196P-001, a statement of refined sophistication. Sleek and deliberately formed, this timepiece blends minimalist purpose with delicate craftsmanship, whilst embodying the rich heritage of the Swiss maison.
The Patek Philippe Calatrava Family
The Patek Philippe Calatrava family originates from the first Calatrava model in 1932, the Reference 96. The sleek, round shape of the dial and Swiss mechanical movements garnered attention from watch enthusiasts and stylish socialites, making the Ref. 96 one of the most recognisable wristwatches at the time.
The Calatrava family derives its name from the Calatrava cross, a symbol first used on the banners of the Calatrava Knights in 1158. It became a registered Patek Philippe trademark on April 27th, 1887, and has been used to identify Patek’s commitment to perfection, mastery and heritage in these references ever since.
This collection also adheres to a purist design, inspired by the minimalistic Bauhaus principle, where function determines the form of the object. For dress watches, this compatibility of function and form is cardinal for wearers.
Related: The History of Patek Philippe
“The iconic Calatrava collection, where form follows function and where the beauty of simplicity truly blooms, is a perfect watch to start getting familiar with the Patek Philippe craftsmanship and a very popular choice for both new clients and seasoned collectors.”
Where Form Follows Function: The Calatrava Ref. 6196P-001
The design of the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6196P-001 is heavily inspired by Patek Philippe’s love for refinement and simplicity. The Calatrava family is widely respected as the blueprint for classic dress watches, characterised by sharp, defined numerals or hour markers and luxurious dial patterns.
Each Calatrava from Patek Philippe is adorned with the Calatrava cross on the crown of the timepiece, paying homage to heritage and uniting strength and mastery.
The Ref. 6196P-001 encapsulates the timeless beauty of a watch. The main operating function, timekeeping, is at its core. This reference entices watch enthusiasts with the opaline rose-gilt dial, faceted anthracite white gold “obus” hour markers and dauphine hands. Surrounded by a polished platinum case with satin-finished flanks, this timepiece offers versatility and high-quality mastery.
The Art of Craftsmanship: Intimate Attention to Detail
To truly highlight the elegant simplicity of this timepiece, a single brilliant-cut diamond is set at the 6 o’clock position. Known for their iconic Haute Jollaire, Patek Philippe's love for gem-setting reflects innovative techniques born from their centuries of experience and passion.
Just above the 6 o’clock position sits a delicate sub-seconds dial. This sub-dial elegantly and smoothly displays the seconds without interfering with the hour and minute hands, complementing a sleek and classic design.
A Beauty in Motion: The Beating Heart of the Calatrava
At its heart lies the calibre 30-255 PS. Measuring 31mm in diameter and just 2.55mm in thickness, this calibre hosts 164 individually crafted pieces, working in time at a frequency of 28,800 semi-oscillations/hour (4 Hz).
Manually wound, this Patek Philippe honours the brand’s unwavering passion for heritage and artistry.
The honed details of each Patek Philippe calibre speak to the horologist's ingenious evolutions, elevating the experience of the wearer with ease and technological innovations.
Comfort Meets Style: The Alligator Strap
This timepiece is complemented with a shiny chocolate brown alligator strap, echoing timeless style, vintage aesthetics and a traditional look. This neutral tone allows the wearer to envision this timepiece amongst multiple styles, such as casual looks or accentuating an evening suit.
Known for a soft feel on the interior, Patek Philippe’s alligator strap allows for premium comfort in every setting.
Discover Your Legacy with Patek Philippe
The Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6196P-001 is a wonderful testament to Patek's commitment to design and technical mastery. As a modernised evolution of the original Calatrava timepiece, this new edition pays homage whilst adding a sense of contemporary elegance.
If you would like to find out more about Patek Philippe or this timepiece, we would love to invite you to our showroom in Truro, where our Patek Philippe expert, Gio Chirieleison, will be able to help you.
Related: The History of Patek Philippe
